Navigating the Science of Delicious
Pioneering food scientist Dr. Mary Wagner stares down global crises while transforming iconic brands like Taco Bell, Starbucks and General Mills
When I first met Dr. Mary Wagner, I was struck by her warmth, intelligence, and the incredible breadth of her experience in the food industry. As a pioneering food scientist, Mary has played a pivotal role in shaping some of the world's most beloved brands. During our conversation, she shared experiences from her remarkable 45-year career journey at the forefront of innovation, crisis management, and leadership, spanning industry giants like General Mills, Taco Bell, Gallo Winery, Mars and Starbucks.
A Flavorful Ascent
Mary's journey began in academia, where a chance encounter with a food technology course set her on a path that would help reshape the food industry. Her transition from professor at the University of Wisconsin-Madison to corporate innovator at General Mills marked the beginning of a career defined by bold achievements. At General Mills, she climbed the ranks from quality assurance to managing R&D for iconic brands like Betty Crocker, showcasing her ability to blend scientific expertise with business acumen.
Mary's career trajectory continued its upward path as she took on roles at Gorton's Seafood and Yum Brands – specifically, Taco Bell – where she launched innovative products from frozen fish filets to grilled burritos and the Chalupa. Mary’s tenure at Gallo Winery allowed her to blend science with viticulture and lead efforts to map the grape genome through a USDA appointment, a breakthrough that benefited not just wine production but the entire grape industry. She then moved to Mars to work on the flavanol healthy cocoa business, and eventually landed at Starbucks as their global Chief Technology Officer where she oversaw the development of Nitro Cold Brew.
Each step of her journey brought new challenges, opportunities to innovate, and the prospect of building high-performing R&D teams from the ground up.
“Every brand has challenges. Every brand has opportunities. I think the most important thing in any role is to assess the personality of the business, the opportunities on the table, the wish list, and then put your expertise in the bucket and start aligning the stars. Once you bring science together with technology, magic begins to happen.”
Conquering Catastrophes
From the Starlink corn controversy at Taco Bell to strengthening food safety practices across multiple companies, Mary has been at the helm during some of the industry's most tumultuous times. The Starlink incident, where genetically modified corn intended for animal feed entered the human food chain, tested Mary's crisis management skills. Her approach—stay calm, pull the right players together, document what you know and don't know, take swift action, and emerge stronger—offers valuable lessons for leaders in any field.
“You can never really plan for a crisis. The rule of thumb is it’s happening. You just have to unpeel the onion. There’s no other way around it. We did a lot in two weeks to identify it, remediate it. And from that came all sorts of activities that I had never planned to immerse myself in. But we got through it and were stronger for it.”
Championing Innovation and Sustainability
Mary talks about the evolution of new technologies in the face of rapidly changing consumer demands, such as cell-cultured meat and regenerative agriculture. She points out the need for quicker creation of new regulations to address these emerging developments.
We also talked about the ramifications of consumer demand for organic foods, such as cage-free eggs and antibiotic-free meat. She explains the complexity of implementing such changes on a global scale, highlighting the importance of understanding supply chains and setting realistic timelines for major transitions.
Mary's work on sustainability, from championing cage-free eggs to exploring cell-cultured meat to spearheading efforts to map the grape genome, demonstrates a commitment to shaping a more responsible food industry. Her insights on the intersection of technology, sustainability, and consumer demands offer a glimpse into the future of food.
Looking ahead, Mary sees automation, AI, innovative technologies, and refocusing labor as key drivers of change in the food industry. In a world facing unprecedented challenges, from feeding a growing global population to addressing climate change, Mary's blend of scientific expertise, business acumen, and visionary leadership offers a model for the next generation of innovators.
“My passion comes from seeing innovation succeed … making people believe you can do things differently than you’ve always done them, giving consumers a product they never thought they could have.”
Finding Your Spark
Throughout her career, Mary has been a tireless advocate for women in STEM fields. She has served on the board of Girls Inc., chaired Washington STEM, and as president of IFT, brought girls to annual meetings to expose them to the food industry.
Her advice to aspiring leaders, particularly women in STEM fields, is both practical and inspiring. She emphasizes the importance of striving for a seat at the table, encouraging women to raise their hands early and often, starting from high school and continuing throughout their careers. She advises nurturing your inner spark and not being afraid to use it, urging women to listen to their hearts and guts when facing challenges.
She also highlights the value of building a strong support network to navigate the challenges of a high-powered career, candidly acknowledging that success often requires sacrifices and compromises. While at Starbucks, Mary commuted between Seattle and Washington D.C., with the support of her loving husband and family.
Mary’s advice resonates beyond the food industry, offering a blueprint for success in any field.
“You need to strive to be at the table. That can happen in high school, that can happen before high school through clubs and in athletics, etc. But when you’re offered a chance to be at the table, I think it’s really important for young women, girls, and older women to take the opportunity.”
Dr. Mary Wagner's message is clear: find your spark and nurture it, even when facing adversity. As she puts it, "You've got it in you. Don't be afraid to use it."
You can learn more about Mary and her work, and connect with her on LinkedIn.
Mary’s journey through the food industry underscores the power of innovation, dedication, and passion. Her story is not just about the products she developed or the companies she transformed but about the people she inspired and the barriers she broke along the way. As we celebrate her achievements, let's also reflect on our own journeys and the impact we can make.
